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Tuesday, June 16, 2015

Winding Down

Not much time to blog tonight, with an early wake-up for our flight home (so hard to believe!).  It was very hard to say goodbye to our friends from LSMU, but they still showed us some more amazing surprises around Lithuania today.  I will whet your appetite by previewing an encounter with an NBA player, lunch from an ethnic group that exists only in one village in the whole world, a dream-like castle on a lake, and dinner in the clouds.  Good night from Vilnius - see you tomorrow night Nashville.

Monday, June 15, 2015

Back Online, the Amazing Journey Continues

What experiences since I have last written!  I apologize for no entries yesterday, but where we stayed Sunday night had no wifi.

Our friends from LSMU picked us up in Kaunas Sunday morning, and we embarked on a two hour drive north to Siauliai and the Hill of Crosses.  This site, one of pilgrimage, thanksgiving, and hope, contains over half a million crosses from visitors wishing to give thanks to God, submit prayers, or demonstrate their faith for whatever they believe.  The boys and girls, as well as Mr. Brown and Mr. McMurray, all left crosses.  We were even able to locate Mrs. Roberts' cross from last year!  The energy from all those who have come before is palpable as it hangs in the air, welcoming all, and I know that I will never forget this experience.

The Hill of Crosses in Siauliai

Cross left by the boys

After lunch, we next drove west to a former Soviet missile silo which has been turned into a Cold War Museum.  We all descended underground to examine the Soviet military site which did house nuclear missiles capable of reaching as far away as England.  This was an excellent history lesson shedding light on another side of the region's recent past.

Not a new fashion trend.  Gas masks at the Cold War missile site

Atop the missile silo

Our final stop Sunday was a retreat within a national park near the missile site, and I must say that this place was truly a highlight of the trip.  The picturesque natural setting was gorgeous with cabins both big and small nestled into the surrounding forest.  It was also adjacent to the largest lake in Lithuania (only Andrew was bold enough to brave the chilly waters).  We ate delicious traditional rural Lithuanian meals, baked bread in a kiln built the same decade as MBA was founded, and swam in their spa-like pools.  A tremendous surprise, our LSMU friends arranged for a local group to demonstrate and lead traditional Lithuanian dances.  All danced the night away for well over an hour, in and interesting and hilarious series of dances.  Exhausted after such an amazing day, we all slept well to say the least.

Baking bread at the retreat
The Lithuanian singers and dancers who surprised us
Getting down, Lithuanian style
Our amazing nature retreat

Today we drove back to Kaunas for a slower day, to become more acquainted with Kaunas.  After the drive and a delicious lunch, we walked through Old Town Kaunas with Linas describing the buildings we encountered, ranging from Medieval and Gothic, to Baroque, Soviet, and all eras in between.  This included the beautifully restored Kaunas Cathedral, Kaunas Castle, City Hall, and several other unique churches and homes.  The walk ended at the banks of Lithuania's largest river, the Nemunas,  Kaunas has a charm and history unique to itself, while still resembling much of the typical beauty and vibe of a similarly sized European city.

Kaunas Castle
At the Nemunas River.  We love Kaunas! 

Lastly, we ended the day being treated to a wonderful dinner and reception by our gracious LSMU hosts at a local monastery.  Still in operation, the monastery also contains a hotel, restaurant and event space.  The stunning facility and the savory food was such a beautiful celebration of the relationship between our three schools and the members of two years of trips to Lithuania.  Our LSMU friends have gone above and beyond anything we could have expected with their hospitality and love.  It will be very difficult to say goodbye tomorrow to what feels like our new family.  Good night from Kaunas.




Saturday, June 13, 2015

To Old Friends and New

What a day!  Our friends from LSMU in Kaunas woke up early to pick us up in Vilnius.  After some embracing and a very warm reception, we headed off by bus to Kaunas.  The students all became fast friends, and the teachers relished in discussing our practice and cultures.  We snacked on the bus with some fresh picked Lithuanian strawberries - the absolute juiciest fruit I have ever eaten.  Delicious!  We soon arrived to the outdoor ethnographic museum at Rumsiskes for a special remembrance.  This weekend every year, Lithuanians remember those lost to the Soviet years.  A group of survivors from the Siberian deportations, more specifically to the Laptev Sea above the Arctic Circle, convene each year here at Rumsiskes to remember those who perished and were never found.  It was a stunning experience to say the least.

The group at Rumsiskes
At Rumsiskes is a recreation of a mud hut that would have been occupied by the deportees.  Volunteering at this site is Irena, a beautiful person who was a major inspiration for the main character in BSOG.  Her energy and zest for life are truly inspirational.

Our guide and friend Linas, and Irena outside the mud hut
Soon after our warm greeting and lesson from Irena, a ceremony was held remembering all those lost in the deportations; we were blessed to attend.  Along with several deportation survivors and 200-300 audience members, there was a Lithuanian-American army general, a member of Lithuanian Parliament, and a camera crew from the Lithuanian national news.  Our own Emmett Russell gave a stirring speech about our group's purpose and what we truly seek in our studies and experiences in Lithuania.  Many were moved to tears as Emmett spoke of what we have done, and more importantly what we will do.  I have never been more proud to be a Nashvillian and a teacher and alumnus of MBA.  Afterwards, Emmett received a wreath of oak leaves, which is an award and symbol of great honor in Lithuanian custom.  Lastly, he was even interviewed on the national news!  Both humble and inspiring, Emmett is a true servant.

A proud moment for all of us.  Bravo, Emmett!  Well deserved.
At the conclusion of the ceremony, we all hungrily scarfed down some traditional Lithuanian food at lunch nearby.  Many of us sampled cepelinai, the national dish of Lithuania.  It is a large potato dumpling stuffed with minced pork and doused with a creamy sauce.  Yum!

Zeppelins!
To end the afternoon, we toured another powerful site, the Ninth Fort.  This location has served as a Russian defensive fort, a Lithuanian prison, a Nazi execution sight, and a Soviet prison.  Touring its dank and intimidating cells and tunnels was both eerie and gripping.  Outside the fort, at the sight where the Nazis murdered around 50,000 people is a one of a kind memorial.  Both very tall and emotionally evocative, it is something not to be forgotten.

The group beneath the monument at the Ninth Fort

A truly unique and remarkable memorial
After a whirlwind of emotions, this has been an exhausting but incredibly rewarding day.  We cannot wait for what our Lithuanian friends have in store for us tomorrow.  Good night.

Friday, June 12, 2015

Full Day in Vilnius

What an amazing day.  Not a cloud in the sky, which is rare for Lithuania, so we got in a full day of walking and touring.  We began in a library at the University of Vilnius where a Jewish ghetto survivor described her harrowing story of survival and community.  It was very eye-opening, as it put a face and voice to much of what we had read on the era.  She was so very full of energy, and captivated the group with her honesty and strength.  Major props to Mrs. Carver as well, who showed off her talents as our Russian translator.

The group listening to Fanya, a survivor of the Vilnius ghetto during the Holocaust 

Fanya and our group
 We then walked back to Cathedral Square for a look at the church and belfry.  Then we found a terrific lunch at an outdoor cafe just behind the Square.  Next came a long hike up the bumpy path to maybe the most recognizable landmark of Vilnius, the Old Castle, perched on a steep hill overlooking the entire city.  The fortifications, most of which have long since fallen, date back to the 1300s.
Gediminas Castle atop a huge hill
View of Old Town Vilnius from the castle
 Next, a walk to the KGB.Genocide Museum, a cannot miss site in Vilnius.  The former headquarters and prison of the KGB is a sobering and fascinating tour through the real power that the Soviets held over Lithuanians from 1940-1991.  The bottom floor is a hellish prison, while the two floors above are displays dedicated to the Lithuanian resistance to Soviet rule, as well as the deportations to Siberia.  So much of Between Shades of Gray is brought to life here.  The students had such mature, insightful, and interesting reactions that we caught on film, and the teachers were absolutely blown away by what they learned from this experience.

Outside of the KGB/Genocide Museum
Lastly, after a stop for some ice cream, it was a jaunt over to one of the most beautiful churches in all of Vilnius, St. Anne's.  Along the way there were Hare Krishnas and  kayakers on the rivers, just to name a few interesting sights.
St. Anne's Church
Tomorrow we meet up with the teachers and students of LSMU and have an incredible day planned around Kaunas.  Good night!


Thursday, June 11, 2015

We Are Here!





After flights to Atlanta, Amsterdam, and finally Vilnius, the MBA-HH team has arrived!  Travel really went as smooth as could be expected.  No delays, or really hassles of any kind for that matter.  Definitely some interesting people-watching in Amsterdam, with a lot of orange-clad soccer hooligans headed to support their national team.  So far the conversation has been lively, and everyone is having a great time getting to know one another.


Ready to head out from Nashville


About 24 hrs. and 8 time zones later!

We smoothly checked into the hotel, which is a 300 plus year old former monastery.  It is a gorgeous property with character and charm in the heart of Old Town Vilnius.  After settling in, the group went walking, to catch some of the most easily accessible sites.  The combination of Baroque architecture and the pulsing energy of the young cosmopolitan population here is a really interesting mixture and makes Vilnius one of the most compelling cities in the region.  We walked through Old Town and Cathedral Square, finally winding our way to a quaint pizza joint that definitely hit the spot.  A short walk back to the hotel, and there were some pretty tired faces.  9:00 p.m (1:00 Nashville!) and the group is hitting the sack.

View from my hotel room - a monastery for sure
Cathedral Square from the side
Front of the Cathedral
Our group at the Gediminas Statue - he founded Vilnius in the 1320s
 
Tomorrow, first it's a guided tour through the Vilnius ghetto by a local Holocaust survivor!  Then it will be on to the KGB Museum, a fascinating glimpse at the oppression of 50 years of Soviet occupation.  Good night from Vilnius!